Pearls - Gems from the Deep

Pearls, for many the epitome of classic and classy jewelry, have long been known as the queen of gems. Throughout history, this treasure of the deep has been revered by many, and stories about them are legion. It is said that Cleopatra, in an attempt to impress Marc Antony with the wealth of Egypt, made a bet with him that she could prepare for him the most costly meal in history. Her challenge accepted, Cleopatra crushed one of a pair of pearls, dissolved it in her wine, and drank it. Antony ceded that he'd lost the bet and declined his own (pearl) dinner. With this kind of allure, is it any wonder that pearls adorn the crown jewels of many royal houses?

A pearl is created when a bit of foreign material, such as a fine grain of sand, becomes lodged within the mantle of certain bivalve mollusks, notably oysters. (Pearls are also found in freshwater mollusks, such as mussels). To cope with the irritation caused by this foreign body, the oyster secretes nacre (mother-of-pearl). This nacre builds up in layers around the offending object, and the lustrous result of the oyster's irritation is a pearl. The most prized pearls are spherical (round), but pearls come in many shapes and color variations. Half-round pearls are known as button, bouton or mabe (the Japanese term); irregularly shaped pearls are known in the jewelry trade as baroque, and can be called pear, drop, or bell pearls. The most sought-after colors in pearls have historically been white, black, rose, and cream (champagne).

Prior to the early twentieth century, pearls were extremely rare and so valuable that only nobility and the very rich could afford them. But this was about to change.

The son of a noodle maker, Kokichi Mikimoto dreamed of cajoling oysters to produce round pearls. Although others had also been experimenting with coaxing oysters to make pearls and had in fact patented their processes, their efforts usually resulted in pearls of less desirable shapes. In 1916 Mikimoto was granted a patent for his method of producing round pearls. An ambitious man and hard worker, he eventually purchased the rights to his competitors' patents. One of the most instrumental forces in the creation of Japan's pearl industry, he made the dream of affordable peals a reality for those unable to afford the rare natural pearls. His name became synonymous with cultured pearls. Today, the vast majority of pearls available are cultured.


A White Mabe Pearl	Unusal Abalone Baroque Pearl	Black and White South Seas Pearls

Buying Pearls

Color - White has traditionally been the most sought after color with other colors such as pink, black, champagne, silver, rose and many others being very popular.
Size - All other characteristics being equal the larger the pearl the more valuable the pearl should be.
Nacre - This refers to the quantity of nacre that has grown on the pearl. Thicker nacre is important since it will be less likely to wear over time. Thin layers of nacre are subject to poor uniformity in the short term and poor durability in the long term. The nacre quality and quantity is a primary consideration when we buy pearls.
Luster - This refers to the quality of the nacre layers on the pearl. Pearls with high quality nacre will have a deep shine and bright reflection.
Surface - This refers to marks and blemishes on the pearl surface. High quality pearls have few if any blemishes or marks. In quality pearls the nacre layers are uniform, consistent and without imperfections.
Shape - Traditionally, round (spherical) has been the most popular and highest priced shape. This still holds true today, but other shapes such as oval, button and some irregular shapes such as baroque are also fashionable.

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Wearing Pearls

By wearing your pearls frequently you can sometimes prevent the strand from becoming dry and rigid. So enjoy them, wear them frequently and they may remain more loose and fluid.

The Last On / First Off Rule

Because of potential damage to pearls from perfumes, hair sprays and other beauty products, we recommend you adhere to this rule! It's best to make pearls the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off.

Caring for Pearls

Pearls are meant to be worn, of course, but they do require some reasonable care to keep their beauty. They can be scratched. Human skin contains oils (these can help keep your pearls from drying out) and acids (these can ruin your pearls!).

Because pearls are produced by living organisms, they contain calcareous crystals that are sensitive to many chemicals and acids. They also contain water and protein and may dry out and crack if not properly taken care of. They should never be wrapped in cotton or wool because the heat generated would add to the risk of drying out, threatening to turn the pearls brown. Since pearls are not as hard as many other precious stones, they should never be stored in direct contact with other pieces of jewelry, which may scratch them. Pearls can be damaged by dishwashing liquids and acidic products, such as hair spray, perfume, vinegar and lemon juice. Even human skin contains acids that can damage pearls, causing them to lose their luster, or in extreme cases (long-time exposure), to become misshapen.

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Cleaning Pearls

It's a good idea to develop the habit of rinsing and drying your pearls after wearing them. You may polish them with a soft cloth containing a drop of olive oil so that they maintain their luster and do not dry out.

Do:

It's easy to care for your pearls. After wearing pearls, wipe them off with a soft cloth, which may be dry or damp. This will prevent dirt from accumulating and keep perspiration, which is slightly acidic, from eating away at the pearl nacre.

When taking off a pearl ring, grasp the shank, or metal part, rather than the pearl. This will prevent the pearl from loosening and coming into contact with skin oil on your hand.

If pearls are very dirty, your jeweler can clean them, or they can be washed in water and a mild soap, such as Ivory Liquid or a soft liquid hand soap and cleaned with a soft cloth. Some liquid detergents, such as Dawn, can damage pearls. Pay attention to the areas around the drill holes where dirt may tend to collect.

After washing your pearls, lay them flat in a moist kitchen towel to dry. When the towel is dry, your pearls should be dry.

At least yearly, have a jewelry professional verify that the pearls on your jewelry are securely mounted and, if strung, that the string and knots are in good condition.

Don't:

Do not use commercial jewelry cleaners on pearls unless the product label states they are safe for pearls. Many such products contain ammonia, which will cause deterioration.
Never clean pearls in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Never steam-clean pearls. Heat can harm them.
Never use detergents, bleaches, powdered cleansers, abrasives, baking soda or ammonia-based cleaners on pearls.
Never hang pearls to dry. Do not wear pearls when their string is wet. Wet string stretches and attracts dirt, which is hard to remove.
Do not use toothbrushes, scouring pads or abrasive materials to clean pearls. They can scratch the pearls' surface. If there is a lump of dirt that can't be rubbed off with a soft cloth, trying using a fingernail, which has a hardness of only 2.5 or less. Better yet, have your jeweler clean them!

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Storing Pearls

You can keep your pearls lustrous and beautiful with proper storage and care. Store your pearls in a soft cloth bag or pouch. If you don't have a bag or pouch, wrap them in a soft cloth. If you toss them in a box or drawer with other jewelry they may be scratched or marred by metal edges, prongs, or harder stones unless you keep them protected.

Don't store pearls in an airtight containers or in an excessively dry place. (Safe deposit boxes at the bank, for example, are too arid for pearl storage.) Pearls need moisture and exposure to humidity; they can become brittle and crack if they become dehydrated.